Tour of Sweden – day 14
Clas and I turned in at 9:30 last night with the room brilliantly lit by the sun hardly blocked at all by the thin shades. Luckily we both have eye shades because when I awoke after midnight the sun was still going strong. At breakfast I was told about a trip to the local bar by Marco, Nicolas and Jan. They likened it to something out of Twin Peaks, where they we’re in turns entertained and terrorized by a completely drunken mother, half in the bag son-in-law, inebriated daughter/wife and a Sami woman in native dress. They sat with their backs to the wall, fearing knives.
We departed at 7:30 am today as we had a long day planned. The cross winds continued their wicked ways and the road became thicker and thicker with reindeer which also grew thicker and thicker in the head. I cannot imagine the evolutionary advantage of trotting along an open road in front of a perceived predator rather than darting into the woods. We had to apply the brakes more than once to avoid the buggers.
After the first mile we crossed a bridge into Finland and turned north. The roads were surprisingly good for such a desolate region except for the three long stretches of sand and gravel which were quite loose in the cross wind. After 10K of riding we were greeted with a sign declaring “Kilpisjarvi 100K”. Every 10K, another sign counted us down. At 20K to go we hit a long climb and I got the distinct impression we’d be climbing the final 12.4 miles. So be it. We were working well as a unit, each taking his turn at the front, but at 10K to go there was a fast descent. Bjorn and I rolled off the front and once things leveled out there was quite a gap so we proceeded ahead. After what we thought was the final 10K was covered, the road kept going so we kept going. We figured we’d spot the van and that would be the end of our odyssey. It took another 5 miles but it finally came. It was quite a treat to be able to ride alongside the fastest man in triathlon cycling for so long.
Pasi and Patrick had inflated a giant Red Bull finish line arch and we posed for a photo then packed up our bicycles in their travel cases for easier transport down to Kiruna. Clas, Bjorn, Marco and I changed into running gear and set out for Treriksroset, the meeting of the three countries. The trail head wasn’t clearly marked and we bush wacked for a while then found the trail. It was rocky, rooty, steep, wet, covered with snow at regular intervals and required numerous stream crossings. The other three pulled away as I vainly tried to keep my feet dry. More than once I sank thigh deep in snow only to find my feet submerged in a fast running stream below. After 5.8K I arrived at a thundering waterfall feeding a fast moving stream flowing down violently to the valley below. On the far side, I saw fresh footprints in the snow and ventured a foot into the rapids, nearly losing it in the process. It was madness! They crossed that? I worked my way up and down stream, seeking something safe but there was no safe way to cross. Certainly not solo. So, thinking what a shame it would be to get injured after all we had done, I sat my sad ass down, enjoyed the views, watched for bear, took out my blackberry, took and posted photos and read Slowtwitch. I figured at least I could videotape their return crossing. However, after 45 minutes, I grew very cold and realized not to get moving could get dangerous. So, I headed back down. As I approached the base of the climb I heard their voices behind me and we ran the final 2K together. While crossing the swamp within 100 yards of the highway, Bjorn executed a fantastic face plant into the stream he was crossing but no one laughed.
We were handed food and drink and quickly changed into dry clothes then piled into the van for the 280 kilometer drive down to Kiruna, home of the northernmost airport in Sweden. 11 men in a van built for 8. It was cramped and progress was slow thanks to the reindeer, but we learned a lot about close quarters over the last 2 weeks and each of us found small adjustments of position to make the next fellow just a little bit more comfortable.
We’re at dinner now. Our table has already been accosted by this sad drunk but the doodes take his intrusion in good humor. I’ve just been told there’s a required flaming sambuca shot so now I’m nervous.
There’s evil afoot …
